Thursday, May 19, 2011

Success, Summitted On saturday May 15 @ 5;15 pm

Hey ya'll Just a quick post, but after 4 days and 3 night on Salathe Wall We summitted, YAAAA. Pictures will be posted Soon. Thank you all for the support

Monday, May 9, 2011

Arrival and Rain

Hey all,  I'm finally here. Posted up at camp 4 is great it's easy living and good people. Apron arrival i meet up with my climbing partner Skander who has been here for a few days climbing some great classics and preparing. But then comes the bad new, He has a foot problem and cant do the climb. My hart sank but.. Is this it? After a good conversation with him i knew he felt awfully about this but informs me of a Australian he has been climbing with that is super strong and wanting to climb a wall. What to do? i quickly put that in the back of my mind to meet this guy. Of all names his is KIM. After that talk i still wanted to get on the classic climb Serenity Crack on Royal Arches 5,10.D. With a nice walk up there i turn a corner and see this beautiful Pin scared Line, And it all starts.
 A 3 pitch beautiful line just makes a climber so happy, After a 1st pitch if a nice 35 foot run out before you  get a piece finally i solid piece. Hanging on the anchors waiting for my second i look deep into the Vally a smile comes apron my face and i relies I'm at my second home. A great 2nd pitch lead by Aron( a friend from Portland ) lead to the final 3 pitch the 10 D section, Headed into the crux i place a great Piece and gun it , WIPPPP and a 20 foot fall excitement runs threw my body and a hoot and holler comes screaming out of my mouth, what a great fall, I get back to the piece and send it the second time, what a great ending to a BEAUTIFUL climb.
 A good nights rest was well needed.  After meeting Kim the night before we decide to take a walk to the base of El Cap and chat about things and see if we were compatible to climb , after a nice few mile hike, we knew we would have a safe and fun time. Now its time to prep for Salathe.  Well it's been rainy Sunday and Monday so we have not been able to climb but it's been good because we need to get a few things worked out. We were able to talk to some veteran climbers and they gave us some awesome advice about the climb.

So this is the plan, Today Monday we are stacking the haul bag and sorting gear. Tomorrow we will haul our bags to Heart ledges and stage our bags there. Wed wed climb FREE BLAST that's leads us to our bags.  And we will spend our first night up on heart ledges. Hopefully i have service on my phone up there and ill be able to update there and keep you posted on how the day went.

 Well wish us luck and hopefully we make a safe and fun summit.

Schedule
Tue- Haul
Wed- Free blast to Heart Ledges
Thursday Heart Ledges to El Cap Spire
Friday El Cap Spire to Long Ledges
Sat Long Ledges to summit. Walk back to 4