Success, Summitted On saturday May 15 @ 5;15 pm

Hey ya'll Just a quick post, but after 4 days and 3 night on Salathe Wall We summitted, YAAAA. Pictures will be posted Soon. Thank you all for the support

Arrival and Rain

Hey all,  I'm finally here. Posted up at camp 4 is great it's easy living and good people. Apron arrival i meet up with my climbing partner Skander who has been here for a few days climbing some great classics and preparing. But then comes the bad new, He has a foot problem and cant do the climb. My hart sank but.. Is this it? After a good conversation with him i knew he felt awfully about this but informs me of a Australian he has been climbing with that is super strong and wanting to climb a wall. What to do? i quickly put that in the back of my mind to meet this guy. Of all names his is KIM. After that talk i still wanted to get on the classic climb Serenity Crack on Royal Arches 5,10.D. With a nice walk up there i turn a corner and see this beautiful Pin scared Line, And it all starts.
 A 3 pitch beautiful line just makes a climber so happy, After a 1st pitch if a nice 35 foot run out before you  get a piece finally i solid piece. Hanging on the anchors waiting for my second i look deep into the Vally a smile comes apron my face and i relies I'm at my second home. A great 2nd pitch lead by Aron( a friend from Portland ) lead to the final 3 pitch the 10 D section, Headed into the crux i place a great Piece and gun it , WIPPPP and a 20 foot fall excitement runs threw my body and a hoot and holler comes screaming out of my mouth, what a great fall, I get back to the piece and send it the second time, what a great ending to a BEAUTIFUL climb.
 A good nights rest was well needed.  After meeting Kim the night before we decide to take a walk to the base of El Cap and chat about things and see if we were compatible to climb , after a nice few mile hike, we knew we would have a safe and fun time. Now its time to prep for Salathe.  Well it's been rainy Sunday and Monday so we have not been able to climb but it's been good because we need to get a few things worked out. We were able to talk to some veteran climbers and they gave us some awesome advice about the climb.

So this is the plan, Today Monday we are stacking the haul bag and sorting gear. Tomorrow we will haul our bags to Heart ledges and stage our bags there. Wed wed climb FREE BLAST that's leads us to our bags.  And we will spend our first night up on heart ledges. Hopefully i have service on my phone up there and ill be able to update there and keep you posted on how the day went.

 Well wish us luck and hopefully we make a safe and fun summit.

Schedule
Tue- Haul
Wed- Free blast to Heart Ledges
Thursday Heart Ledges to El Cap Spire
Friday El Cap Spire to Long Ledges
Sat Long Ledges to summit. Walk back to 4

Sponsorships and special thanks

    I would first like to say thank you to my wonderful Wife to be Kim. Thanks you so much for putting up with days upon days of me climbing,reading about Salathe, coming home late from climbing, rolling into bed all bloody and soar then getting up and doing it again. The non stop taking about doing big walls is probably about as interesting  to her as me watching desperate house wife's or something. I love you Kim and a part of you will be up there on this wall with me.

There is an outfitter in Portland Oregon that i have to take my hat off to for helping me with this opportunity , they have help me with so much for this trip and a lot of day /weekend climbing trip. Special thanks to my sponsors at NEXT ADVENTURE in Portland OR. A great shop that i have worked at for many years with friendly and knowledgeable staff. Next Adventure has grown to be a great shop in Portland OR, With an out standing Climbing Department, managed by Doug Lloyd, having everything you need to make your accent up a big wall, boulder, Sport route, aid route, or just a nice scramble. Weather you need a Sling,new pair of shoes, Haul bag all different sizes, Most recent pulley's, anchors, or Off set cams. Next adventure will be there to help you get going. So stop in and look around. hopefully they can start your next adventure. Visit them also online at NextAdventure.Net

Last but not least My family . They have always thought i was a little crazy for doing these things but after a few years they said "well he's just going to continue doing it, so lets support him" They were always behind me with support and smiles. On my first attempt on the Nose they bought me a rope and was super grateful of that. I love my family very much and thank you for being there for me, Dad(Corando), Shelly( Step Mom), Mom(Jerri), Brother (Corando) ,Little sister (Lesley), Step sisters (Quin and Ellior) and Woodie ( my mentor). Thank you so much. I love you

Gearing up

        There is nothing better then skipping out of work for a few days and heading out to your local crag with good friends. I'm headed out for 5 days to get the last few climbs in before heading to Yosemite. I have decided to not call it training because training means your working for something, and the word WORK i do not like. Climbing for me is not work it's a passion.  I have always found climb to be a relief for me. There is something about a hanging belay for me that just puts me in a place that makes me feel so free and open. No worries to the world but what's ahead of me. Unfortunately when you come back down the world is there right where you took off, but i,you, us ,we all look at it in a different way when we get back down tot he ground. Maybe the rock calms me. Yes for you who know me, i know, i know, i don't calm down, but maybe for a split second it does.
Every time i head down to this area to climb, I'm always thinking what will i get on next. So i make a bucket list, start hike that 40 minute hike up with the fullest intention for doing all the climbs i picked and every time i get distracted by another beautiful climb an maybe get 2 out of 5 done. Well hopefully with 5 days there i can get it all done. So when i return ill be sure to up date you on all the good times and good climbs that happened. Hopefully i get some good snap shots to share to you all.
 So as i sit here typing this tonight with my gear flung all over the living room floor.( I'm sure Kim loves it ) I say to all you Climbers, hikers , kaykers, runners, park goer's. Whatever hobbies you have , enjoy it to the fullest have fun in life and always take that time to step away for the world and enjoy the beauty of mother nature.
 See ya on the flip side

Yosemite Bound

There is a feeling you get when you strap on your harness grab a rope and start racking up  your gear for the climb your about to do. It may be Bunny Face at Smith Rock in Oregon or Monkey Face,Sphinx Crack in south Platte Co, Super Crack in Indian Creek Utah or your local aid or mountaineering route. It's this feeling of nervousness ,excitement, or scared shirtless. But we'll do it time and time again and we will never forget that first climb we climbed.
My Name is Steven Lozano im 28 and live in Portland Oregon, and i will never forget that 1st lead on Classic Dihedral 5.7 on  the Bucksnort Snort slabs In the south Platte Colorado. I will also never forget my climbing mentor Woodie. And man who sat me down at the top of a climb and told me about respecting yourself,  respecting others, respecting mother nature and the most important the Rock. A speech that has changed my life forever.
 12 years ago i seen a picture of El Capitan  and on it was the THE NOSE  V1 5.13+ or 5.9 C1 OR 5.8 C2. I knew i wanted to climb it and 3 years later i was standing at the base of it. Getting that feeling you get when you don't know what lies ahead. Unfortunately we got 13 pitches up and had to retreat back down. Defeated by the beautiful beast but not forgotten. After a few days rest we were able to to climb many great classics in the Vally including Astroman, 5.11.c a great classic climb in Yosemite.
Now I'm ready to go back to the Vally with different climb on my list, Salathe Wall VI 5.13B or 5.9 C2. With great history of this route i knew i wanted to fallow the steps of Royal Robins, Tom Frost, and Chuck Pratt. On May 5th i leave Portland via train headed to Yosemite to look at the mighty El capitan again. Read along on my Blog please as once again i  prepair with Great help from the sponsorship from NEXT ADVENTURE in Portland Oregon for another life changing event in my life.